Appeal of Local Foods Lost in Translation

By Michael Ha
Staff Reporter

Restaurants in Seoul offer a wide range of local foods full of delectable Korean flavors at affordable prices, but they may be lost in translation for non-Korean speaking diners.

Most Korean restaurants do offer menus with English translations to help explain their assembled dishes. But for those who don't know their ``doenjang-jjigae'' from ``sundubu-jjigae,'' these translations often fall short of conveying the foods' true appeal.

For visitors new to the country, ``doenjang-jjigae'' is a stew made with soybean paste and assorted vegetables and ``sundubu-jjigae'' is a spicy stew with soft tofu, soybean paste and seasonal vegetables including summer squash.

There is evidence in other parts of the world that traditional Korean foods can have a wide appeal once proper marketing is made.

In restaurants around Seoul, though, some English menus can leave some non-Korean diners confused with the translation. In one such menu, a diner may find a ``green gram pancake'' or a ``nok-du-jeon'' ― a Korean-style pancake made with flour batter, eggs and mung beans ― and ``uncurdled bean curds'' or ``sundubu'' ― silken soft tofu often served in a spicy vegetable stew.

Even adventurous diners might pause before ordering a ``sulfur duck,'' a popular traditional Korean dish that hails from past Korean royalty. In the traditional recipe, the dish refers to a roasted duck filled with 23 Korean medical ingredients including ginseng, various herbs and roots.

Offering more accessible English menus may even help boost Korea's tourism industry. Currently, more than 6 million foreign nationals visit the country on an annual basis.

Already, there are government agencies that provide menu translations for local restaurants. For instance, the Korea Tourism Organization has published menu booklets with English-language descriptions for traditional Korean foods. They can be downloaded for free from the organization's Web site.

With proper marketing, Korean foods can have a wide appeal. For instance, in New York, Korean-American chef David Chang has been celebrated for his trendy restaurants that offer traditional Korean foods mixed with a modern touch. His ``Momofuku Ssam'' restaurant, which opened in 2006, has become a popular dining spot in the city and was named the ``Best New Restaurant of 2007'' by The New York Times.

The Korean word ``Ssam'' refers to foods that are wrapped or encircled in vegetables. Chang also operates ``Momofuku Noodle,'' which offers Korean ramen, and ``Momofuku Ko,'' which has Korean-American fusion dishes.

In New York, Korean foods are also served at popular Japanese restaurants including ``Nobu'' and ``Gyu-Kaku, Japanese BBQ Dining'' and are often thought of as Japanese offerings. In Singapore, one of the most popular restaurants in the country is ``Crystal Jade Korean Ginseng Chicken & BBQ,'' which specializes in Korean barbeque.

According to Korean culinary expert Choi Ji-ah, many non-Koreans find it hard to pronounce, let alone understand the names of Korean dishes. She said more efforts should be made to ensure proper translations for local restaurant menus.

Choi also observed that many foreign nationals who have opportunities to taste Korean food do find it appealing. But she said Korean dishes do not have the kind of international appeal that Japanese and other Asian foods enjoy. ``I have had opportunities to travel around the world. I think marketing Korean food is a great way for non-Koreans to understand and appreciate our culture. But our traditional foods don't have a wide global appeal yet. That's because there is a lack of understanding, a clear image, for Korean foods."

Dining is entertainment. It's not just about food. Korean restaurants should also pay more attention to their customer service as well,'' she said.